EP is Holding a Shoot

Sunday 8/27

Who ever is close enough and wants to come - I know there are many around the Red river Montague county Texas area that might want to come shoot some clay birds. This is our annual tradition, and everybody is welcome. We have alot of fun, and we always like new victims., just kidding.

We have alot of games we play and it cost you a quarter, yep 25 cents per game. we do it for fun not profit, you will have a ball come join us. Email me at ru4cowboys@yahoo.com between now and Sunday morning at 9:00 AM and I will send you the directions.

This isn't some PC gun club shoot, this is the real thing that test's your skills in every way.

Will there be beer?

A Stuck Screw - Philips Head

First!

Righty Tighty - Lefty Loosey

Use good driver bits or drivers. Don't skimp or try to save money here you'll pay for it in te end.

If you have been smart and stopped trying to turn the screw out before the head is cone shaped try the following:

Apply enetrating oil, wait a half hour. Remove screw.

Tap your screwdriver lightly with a hammer as you apply turning force to it.

If that doesn't work, place a screwdriver bit into the philips "star" and heat it cherry red. Leave it there until it and the screw have cooled. This will expand the scew, hopefully breaking any corrosion bond as it cools. Remove the screw if possible. Use the previous procedure if needed.

Note: - your may want to heat the bit out of the scew and then place it in the screw with a pair of pliers if you are imprecise with your torch work.


If the screw head is stripped or nearly stripped try the following:

Place the end of a flat punch (pin punch) about at least the size of the screw head over the screw and whack it. This will close the philips "star" again giving your driver some bite again. You may have to whack the screwdriver into the new star. You might try heating the bit here as you are almost to the end of the options.

Apply some "valve grinding compound" to the screwdriver tip. This will give is extra "bite" and help prevent it from camming out of the screw head. Remove the screw.

If you have gone and just made a funnel shape of the screw head, get a center punch and drive it into four points arond the screw head making another (boogered up) "star". Heat a bit as described above. I don't hold out much hope with this method, but it will sometimes work.

There are some screw extraction devices that are sold by crafstman and others that look lise reverse running countersink bits. Try these, too. They will work on screws that just need a little extra force to come out, but they will only chew the head off if the screw is actually frozen.


If all else fails: Drill.

I'll not go into this as it requires equipment and o

My Civic Duty

So You Went and Told the Masses

First EP, then Nate, now ABC snews.

Internet websites have been full of speculation that it could be a target date for terrorists in commemoration of the return of the 12th imam, a supposed day of reckoning for Shiites.

I got a dollar says won't shit happen tomorrow.

Zen And The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Chapter I - The Chain





Modern chains are sealed units with preinstalled factory internal lubrication. Some are of the "endless" variety and must be assembled/disassembled using special tools for replacement or when required for other maintenance prcedures.
They come in different sizes or "pitches" and are specific to an application.

O-Ring:
These are the seals that retain the factory installed "grease" internally. Preserving these is part of the goal of proper chain maintenance.

Masterlink:
This is the part of the chain that allows you to disconnect it from itself. There are three types; Riveted, Slip-fit clip type, and Press-fit clip type.
Only the "Slip-fit clip type" is easily roadside friendly.
The "Press-fit clip type" can be dealt with on the side of the road, but it's a pain in the ass.
The "Riveted" type refers makes an endless chain and requires special tools to work with. It can be disassembled and assembled with common hand tools and workbench, but it ain't fun and it won't work as well or be as safe.

Lubrication:
This is a highly contentious topic. There as many theories as there are riders, but The following is universal.

No matter what you use, use it often and keep your chain as clean as poosible.

There are two basic types of lube; Oily, and chain "wax". Manufacturers recommend "oily" as in 80wt to 90wt gear oil brushed onto a clean chain usually every 300 to 400 miles. Some use WD40. That might be OK for cleaning a chain, but it ain't gonna lube it and some say it will deteriorate the o-rings that seal the chain.
Chain "wax" is a class of spray on lubricant that won't fling off the chain and applies in a somewhat less messy manner than "oily" libricants do. I hate this stuff. It does nothing to prevent corrosion of the chain plates and your chain will look like shit right quick.

The Best Solution is to install an automatic lubrication system such as a "Scott Oiler" or somesuch.

The following manufacturer's link has videos of chain assembley and disassembley.

Chain Stuff