Saturday, October 01, 2011

A bit of rear suspension stiction.



Bill said...

Hmmm, looks like a spacer.   What's the problem?

Also, have you ever welded cast iron?  A friend of mine (laid off 8 months ago) needs a vice welded so he can continue an under-the-table gig.  He broke the baseplate of his main vise and I said I could weld it for him.  It's been years and years since I welded anything cast.  Looks like a pretty simple job, and I have some cast iron sticks (yes, crazy expensive high nickle content rods) left over from years ago... any hints?  Bake it? Peen it after welding?  Thoughts?  Anything new in welding cast iron in the past 20 years?

JACIII said...

This are the pins that fix the bearings on the second articulted joint on a
BMW VS swingarm.
On cast: you have to get the piece at least to 700degrees to have any
chance. The only success I have seen with those nickel rods is by welding a
bead on each face and the welding the two beads together. Peening required.
The best success I have personally had is with MIG using cheap wire after
preheating and peening while still hot. Stick it back in the oven and bring
the heat down slow and peen some more.
You can think you've got it and ten minutes later you hear a pop. Game over.
The bead has popped away from the cast.
I have been told the peening is to work out stresses, but it looks to me
from observing failures that its the difference of coefficient of expansion
between the filler and cast iron that is the issue. My goal is to try to
peen the bead to minimize the effect. I have used a helper to peening the
bead as it is still malleable. There is a ton of info and video on this.
Beat of luck and let me know how it goes.
It's a stone cold bitch.
On Oct 2, 2011 12:18 AM, "Echo" <>

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